Food

This Soup Is a Hug


My lemony white bean soup with turkey and greens is a warm hug on a crisp evening (and a New York Times Cooking classic).

Two white bowls of soup on a gray surface, with metal spoons. The soup is a red broth studded with greens, white beans and bits of ground turkey.
Melissa Clark’s lemony white bean soup with turkey and greens.Con Poulos for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Jerrie-Joy Redman-Lloyd.

Hello from the road! I’m writing this from the airport, en route to Istanbul and points beyond for a rose-water-grape-molasses-tahini-infused getaway that I’ll fill you in on when I get back. Follow along; I’ll be posting plenty of food photos on Instagram (@clarkbar). Let’s meet for baklava!

Whenever I fly solo, I make a big batch of soup to leave behind. It’s a virtual hug for my husband and daughter, one that also ensures they eat their vegetables while I’m gone (mom vibes run so deep). Lemony white bean soup with turkey and greens is a family fave, either to put in the freezer or to eat still fragrantly steaming. Its cumin and garlicky aromas really let you know a home-cooked dinner is happening, even though Mom is halfway around the world.


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Lemony White Bean Soup With Turkey and Greens

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Yesterday marked the official start of fall, and right on cue those amber and ruddy leaves are beginning to dot the sidewalks. I always pocket a bunch and arrange them on a platter for the table, their pretty colors oddly reminiscent (to me anyway) of burnished, melty cheese — like that on Ham El-Waylly’s pastel de choclo. Ham’s take on this casserole-like dish, popular throughout South America, is made from fresh or frozen corn kernels and spicy ground beef bound with eggs and mozzarella and spiked with raisins and olives. Ham rounds out the brawny flavors with a small amount of sweetened condensed milk in the corn pudding, but cooks report in the recipe notes using regular whole milk instead for a more savory experience.

Speaking of convenient marvels, Yotam Ottolenghi’s smoky shrimp saganaki is among his finest and simplest weeknight recipes. It’s a snap to make; just bake a skillet full of cherry tomatoes, chiles and garlic until everything bubbles and softens. Then nestle chunks of feta in it and, at the end, a handful of sliced shrimp that blush bashfully as they cook. A bit of crusty bread is all you need to mop up that lovely, shrimpy sauce.

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